FROM mini skirts and maxi dresses to power suits, punk attire, hip hop and athleisure. For the longest time fashion has been dictated by the dress codes of the Western world.
It was no different in Malaysia. Contemporary wear took its cue from what was trending on runways overseas.
However, from 2000 onwards, a distinct shift started to take place in the local fashion scene, with designers turning “inwards”, towards traditional Malaysian elements as inspiration for their designs and by doing so, they celebrated our distinct multicultural heritage.
This shift in the local fashion scene has been particularly noticeable in the last five to 10 years.
Our heritage is the heartbeat of Malaysian fashion, says Malaysian Official Designers Association (MODA) president Cyrus Chin.
Using traditional fabrics, weaving techniques, and crafts is not about looking back, it’s about giving these elements new life, he explains.
“When we blend them into contemporary designs, we create something that is both rooted and modern. It’s also a way to keep our artisans’ skills alive and to share Malaysia’s story with the world.”
One of the earliest initiatives that celebrated traditional fabrics was the Piala Seri Endon launched in 2003. This design competition put batik on the map, showcasing its beauty and versatility and took a once humble fabric onto sophisticated runways.
Chin says designers today are more confident about celebrating Malaysia’s heritage through their work, and consumers are responding positively.
This shift has been driven by a stronger sense of identity, a demand for authentic storytelling, and a growing interest in sustainable fashion.
MODA has seen the industry moving from simply following global trends to creating work that truly reflects our own heritage.
It’s a path that elevates Malaysian fashion beyond trends, evolves the industry through meaningful stories, and empowers everyone involved — from designers and artisans to buyers.
TRIBUTE TO OUR ROOTS
Chin says young people today want fashion to mean something, to reflect who they are and where they come from. They appreciate pieces that tell a story, and they care deeply about authenticity, sustainability and cultural pride.
“When fashion celebrates our roots in a fresh and relevant way, it resonates with them on a personal level while also supporting the local creative community.”
This connection not only strengthens appreciation for our multicultural heritage but also empowers local talent and nurtures a fashion culture that’s proud, sustainable, and forward-thinking, he says.
Fashion designer Khoon Hooi says for Malaysian consumers, seeing traditional craft elevated into modern, wearable pieces fosters both pride and a deep sense of belonging.
“It transforms fashion into more than clothing — it becomes a wearable piece of history and identity,” he says.
This is not about nostalgia, he adds, but about evolution: culture forms the root, while design grows as the branch reaches towards new possibilities.
Each piece becomes a conversation between past and present, one that speaks to Malaysians.
PUTTING MALAYSIA FIRST
Renowned fashion designer Melinda Looi has a deep love for Malaysian handmade textiles, and they’ve become an essential part of her creative journey.
“From batik, songket, tenun and keringkam to rattan, I enjoy weaving these rich traditions into my designs, each piece carrying the soul of our heritage.”
Looi cherishes the artistry of handcrafted work, and believes preserving these time-honoured techniques is not just about cultural pride, but also her personal approach to sustainable fashion and sustaining traditional crafts.
“Preserving cultural heritage through fashion means keeping our roots alive, but in a way that feels fresh and relevant.”
Looi loves working with traditional Malaysian textiles like batik, songket, and tenun because they carry so much history and heart.
It’s her way of celebrating our culture while sharing it with a new audience.When it comes to balancing tradition and innovation, she sees it as mixing “old souls with new vibes”.
“I respect the craft and keep its essence, but I’m not afraid to play – whether it’s with modern cuts, bold styling, or combining it with unexpected materials. It’s all about giving heritage a new life while staying true to its story.”
Young people today are very open and excited about traditional elements as long as it feels fresh, says Looi, especially when it’s styled in a cool, modern way.
They are proud to wear their culture, she adds but they want it to feel “now”, not old-school.
This has totally influenced how she designs. She uses heritage fabrics but plays around with cuts, colours, and styling to make it feel fun and wearable for young consumers.
“It has pushed me to think outside the box while still staying true to my roots.”
One of Looi’s stand-out pieces paying tribute to Malaysian heritage is the Rattan Dress
The gown, part of the Melinda Looi Couture Collection, was produced in collaboration with rattan artisans.
It was crafted from panels of hand harvested and hand plaited rattan produced by Erang Ipoi, Serina Melai and Supang Sigak, with supplemental patterning by Mandona Jusely.
These rattan artisans are from the Penan ethnic group residing in a cluster of villages along the upper reaches of Sungai Tutoh in the Upper Baram highlands of Sarawak.
The stand-out sculptures on the sleeves of the dress were produced by womenfolk residing in the cluster of Iban longhouses in the Ulu Ai region.
The gown, worn by singer Aina Abdul while performing at an event to celebrate National Unity Week 2024, turned heads for its innovation. It maintains the natural colour of the rattan and comes adorned with pink embroidery.
Looi also collaborated with the Tun Jugah Foundation for the pattern, Tanoti Crafts on the rattan weaving, and Jaw Textile and Printing on the digital textile printing.
While Looi turned to rattan, another local label decided to embrace the charm of batik. Masterpiece By Masrina Abdullah is making waves with its batik ensembles.
The label is the brainchild of two individuals, Masrina Abdullah and Mayamin Azlan, a mother and daughter duo.
Masrina says the campaign launched by the late Tun Endon Mahmud in 2003 had the greatest impact on reviving Malaysian batik.
Launched on a grand scale with the introduction of innovative approaches, it became the epitome of new awareness in the local batik scene.
At that time the general public’s understanding of real/original batik was low, she explains.
From then on, many events began taking place to bring batik to new heights. Various regulatory bodies such as Perbadanan Kraftangan Malaysia and Persatuan Batik Malaysia played a role in projecting batik to Malaysians.
Local designers (both batik and fashion designers), also worked tirelessly to use batik as part of their collections, adding to the revival of a beloved traditional fabric.
“Batik is versatile. We can apply traditional to modern approaches in terms of designs and motifs. With an unlimited array of techniques and approaches yet unique in nature as it is exclusively handmade, batik stands above the rest.”
It is a very fashion-friendly fabric she adds and designers have the flexibility to work with the fabric for any type of collection, be it formal, casual or resort-style clothing.
“It is very important to reflect cultural heritage in local fashion as it helps shape the continuity of heritage arts.”
A country that reflects culture through fashion is a nation with pride in its identity, she adds.
© New Straits Times Press (M) Bhd
